The Sounds & Tastes of Stowe
When
planning a recent road trip through the north east of the United States, I had decided
on a couple of guiding principles. One was that I would try my best to avoid
anywhere I had visited previously, and the other was to attempt to steer clear
of the more celebrated tourist attractions and cities. That meant that if I
arrived at a fork in the road with signs pointing to either Disneyland or Marge’s
Apricot Pie Shed, I wouldn't be coming home that night wearing a large pair of
plastic mouse ears. My hope was that these basic rules would provide me with
some unique experiences and the chance to uncover some lesser known small-town American
gems.
Consequently,
I was soon making my way through Vermont’s lofty Green Mountains, bound for the
tiny township of Stowe, with not a theme park, casino or flashing neon billboard to be found.
Nicknamed
‘The Ski Capital of the East’ and nestled at the foot of the state’s highest
mountain, Stowe is best known for its world-class snow activities, with an
estimated 425,000 visitors arriving each ski season. The area is dotted with
lodges, ski and snowboard hire shops and challenging cross country trails,
providing everything any snow sport aficionado could possibly need. However,
although Stowe relies heavily on tourism during the winter months, there are
some excellent reasons to visit during warmer times.
This
was very comforting news for me, as I had arrived smack in the middle of a Northern Hemisphere summer, with not a snowflake in sight. Fortunately, I soon
discovered that there were a couple of unanticipated experiences close by, neither
of which involve hurtling myself down an icy mountain at high speeds.
You
see, way back in 1938 as Europe was moving towards the outbreak of World War II,
an Austrian family of eleven fled their beloved Salzburg and settled in
America. Eventually discovering Stowe, where the majestic countryside so
reminded them of their hometown, they decided to make a fresh start high up in
the hills here. That family – the von Trapps – were later immortalised when
their life was retold on screen in the hit film “The Sound of Music”.
Later
adding a guest lodge to their property, the von Trapps would spend the coming years
entertaining family and friends by performing songs and plays. Today the lodge operates
year-round as a guest accommodation for the many travellers who come from all over
to pay homage to this famous family. Set on 2,500 acres and offering
breathtaking views, the now world-class resort features Austrian-inspired
architecture along with modern conveniences (Wi-Fi!), and is managed by
Johannes von Trapp, the youngest of the surviving children.
Tourist Trapp - the von Trapp Family Lodge |
The film inspired by the von Trapp family |
The lodge with memorial garden in the foreground |
Having
had my fill of all things von Trapp, it was time to move on to the next unexpected
local delight. Just 15 minutes down the road in neighbouring Waterbury is the
original birthplace of that delicious icon of ice-cream, Ben & Jerry’s,
whose tubs of sweet creamy dessert have been putting smiles on people’s faces
since opening for business in 1978. From its humble beginnings in an old
run-down petrol station, Ben & Jerry’s has grown to become one of the most
popular ice-cream manufacturers worldwide, with locations in 27 countries
around the globe, including Australia. Its flavours range from the traditional
chocolate and vanilla varieties to the more indulgent New York Super Fudge
Chunk and Strawberry Cheesecake.
The
Waterbury factory is open to the public and runs guided tours throughout the
week. Unlike most factory tours where the emphasis is on production,
distribution and the importance of a snug-fitting hairnet, Ben & Jerry’s
provides an ever-cheerful host, a brief but entertaining video, a quick viewing
from above the main factory floor and ends with a generous sample of whatever
batch of ice-cream is in production at the time. Happily, I was there when the
sublime Triple Caramel Chunk was being liberally scooped out. Tip: if your tour
group seems a little light on numbers, make sure you hang around the sample
tray for leftovers.
The famous Cowmobile! |
A Natural Selection |
Rest In Peach |
Because
of the size of the facility and the brevity of the tour itself, I would
recommend setting aside only about an hour or two for the whole experience,
rather than a full or half day. And like anything else that can draw a crowd,
try and avoid visiting during school holidays, on weekends and during peak
seasons. The amount of time spent in queue and waiting for a tour to begin can
realistically be cut down by about a quarter.
And
so ended my fleeting visit to Stowe. I was so pleased to have discovered some
out of the way places and given some new stories to tell. Although most of the
world may know Stowe by its winter name, that shouldn’t mean that it is not
worth a visit during the warmer months when the sun is high, the flowers
blooming and the ice-cream refreshingly cold. It really is an all-season
experience.
GETTING
THERE
If
you’re visiting as part of your own planned road-trip, Stowe is approximately 3
½ hours from Boston, 3 hours from Montreal, and 6 ½ hour’s drive from New York
City. If you are flying, nearby Burlington International Airport services the
surrounding area with flights to all major US cities.
STAYING
THERE
Plenty
of accommodation options await the weary traveller. Although a small few only
operate during the snow season, the better rates are offered during the warmer
months with deals as low as $96 per night. Budget hotels, B&Bs and resorts
are dotted throughout the town. For a real treat, consider staying at the Trapp
Family Lodge, from $265 p/night.
WHAT TO DO & SEE
RECREATION
PATH
Ranked
#1 for Stowe attractions according to Tripadvisor, this 8 ½ km award-winning
track winds its way through and around the township, providing wonderful views
of the surrounding areas, and caters for both walkers and cyclists.
TRAPP
FAMILY LODGE
There’s
much more to this family lodge than just the guest rooms. Take a wander through
the vast gardens, check out the family photos and gift shop downstairs from the
main lobby, and pay your respects at the family cemetery.
BEN
& JERRY’S ICE-CREAM FACTORY
A
15 minute drive from downtown Stowe, Ben & Jerry’s Factory Tours operate
daily, with starting times dependant on the season. A guided tour lasts 30
minutes, with a capacity of 40 people per group. Prices are very reasonable at
$4 per adult, while children 12 years and under are free. The factory is closed
for only three days per year: Christmas, Thanksgiving and New Years Day.
DINING
There
are plenty of dining options here, from casual pizzerias to pubs, cafes and
family restaurants. The recently-opened Bistro at Ten Acres Lodge has quickly
established itself as a favourite for specials occasions, offering quality food
along with views of the Vermont countryside. Open for dinner Wed-Sun only.
MORE INFORMATION
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